Saturday, October 8, 2011

Natal


Natal, Rio Grande do Norte state, Brasil

Natal is awesome…its a smaller-sized city located in Northeastern Brazil, in the Rio Grande do Norte state.  It’s a coastal town, lined with beaches, and as been a great place to wrap-up my trip.  I’ve been staying in Ponta Negra, two blocks from Ponta Negra beach, in a hostel that looks like its straight out of Harry Potter.  Its called Lua Cheia, check out the link.  Overall, the hostel is pretty mellow, which is a nice change from some of the party hostels I ran into in Rio and Ihla Grande, and the town is mellow too.  Ponta Negra is basically a vacation destination for Brazillians from other parts of the nation.
The beach in Ponta Negra has a boardwalk lined with shops, hotels, restaurants, bars, and tons of street vendors: food, art, sarongs, souvenirs, even CDs (these guys walk around rolling this barrel out which comes blaring music of all types, I even heard some country!, they have the individual black market CDs for sale on top of the cart). 
The beach is super nice.  Not the most picturesque idealized beach, but the water is a great temperature, the sand is clean, and being surrounded by sand dunes, its really pretty.  Its also very windy, but the wind is actually pretty nice because it cools you off from the heat of the sun; that way you don’t sweat when sunbathing.   The beach is also overrun with people, and vendors (although some days are busier than others-Sunday was a particularly crowded day, while Friday was really pleasant).  You can literally buy ANYTHING on the beach: sandals, jewelry, souvenirs, sunglasses, bathing suits, sun block, corn on the cobb, meat skewers, crab, and shrimp, crepes, beer, mixed drinks, water…whatever you may need, they will have it.  The beautiful part is that you can rent a lounge chair, a table and an umbrella for around 5 Reais for the entire day, and be catered to.  The guys renting out the chairs will come by and ask you if you want anything to eat or drink, and bring it to you.  Best of all, things are cheap: meat skewers, 2 Reais each, corn on the cobb, 2 Reais, beers 2.50 Reias, caipirinhas 4 Reias, Coconut water (straight out of a chilled coconut) 1 Reai.  I think I had about 5 chilled coconuts during my four days in Natal.  
Unfortunately, I failed to meet anyone new during my stay.  The only English-speaking person I met from my hostel was a guy from Holland who I met the night before he left.  The two girls I shared my room with at the hostel only spoke Portuguese, and no English; between my knowing Spanish and them speaking slowly, we managed to communicate a bit, but that was pretty much it.  In other words, my time in Natal was mellow, I spent three days lounging by the beach and reading a book, while sipping on coconuts and and caipirinhas.  I did, however, really like the bar attached to our hostel though.  It was called “Taverna Pub,” and had live music every night.  The first night, there was samba, the second there was a crazy band that dressed up as characters and did covers (check the Michael Jackson impersonation…too funny), and the third night there was a Portuguese rock band who sang music that I wasn’t particularly into, but apparently the whole rest of the bar was into it, cause they were singing along the whole time.  My favorite night was my first night, when they were playing samba, the place was packed with Brazilians, and there was some pretty impressive dancing going on.  Its always pretty nice when you can go out, and have fun, and yet your bed is only a mere twenty steps away, upstairs, in a quiet room.  Overall, Natal was a great destination choice for the end of my trip.
Some minimal Portuguese that I’ve manage to pick up during my two-week stay:

Obrigada/o-Thank you, -a ending is for women; -o ending is for men, unfortunately, I didn’t know there was a difference in the ending for different sexes, so I had been saying “obrigado” for about a week – typical, haha.
Bom dia – Hello/Good day
Bom Noite – Good evening
Moito Bem – Very good
Belleza – an expression for something like “awesome” or “great.”
Franga – Chicken
Peixe – Fish
Cerveja – Beer, pronounced “Sher-veh-shja”
Praia – Beach
No comprendo – I don’t understand (they say comprender here, instead of entender)
Disculpe – I’m sorry/excuse me, pronounced “deesh-cou-pe.”

Portuguese is actually a really beautiful language, so similar to Spanish, yet so very different.  While in Brazil, I basically spoke Spanish with a not so authentic Portuguese accent, and I got by.  I could also understand a fair bit, if spoken slowly.  But, a lot of people (shop salespeople, or random people at the airport) would just immediately speak to me in Portuguese.  I would look back at them doe-eyed, shrugging with an innocent smile on my face and say “no comprendo.”  I guess Portuguese will have to be my next language, once I master Spanish.

Brazil favorites: the music (samba, bossa nova), the beach!, the coconuts, the açai with granola!, the bikinis, and the happy people.

My hostel - Lua Cheia, "the little witch hostel," medieval themed

Ponta Negra beach


The boardwalk in Ponta Negra

The famous sand dune backdrop in Ponta Negra

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My set up for three days

This is all I did.

I ended up buying the tile this guy was painting...he was really amazing.  He painted it in about 5 minutes.


Down the street from my hostel, not much to do...except for the beach

A very busy Saturday

Practical way of making sure ur stuff doesn't get stolen
This was the most recognizable guy selling music on the beach...he was always dressed as a woman.  Kind of reminded my of Selaron's self-portraits (the guy that made the Lapa steps)

Ihla Grande


Ihla Grande, Rio de Janeiro state, Brasil

When planning my trip to Brazil, I had originally intended to visit 6 cities in two weeks. However, as I got closer to my actual arrival, I decided to really focus on what really mattered to me at the end of my trip: beach bumming.  Ihla Grande, located on the “Costa Verde” wasn’t originally on my list of sights to see in Brazil, but I had stumbled upon the island in a travel magazine that I had randomly picked up in the Marriott hotel in Buenos Aires.  It was also recommended to me by other traveling friends and because there was an easy transfer to the island offered by my hostel in Rio, I decided that it was where I would go.
The transfer I paid for picked me up at my hostel in a van filled with other travelers, and dropped us off in Angra dos Reis where we hopped on a boat that took us directly to the main town on the island, Abrao.  The boat was packed with 15 travelers and our heavy luggage.  Mid-way to the island, the manager came along in a speedboat and demanded that 6 people transfer from our boat to the speedboat because it was way too heavy.  The boat ride took about an hour, but I was pretty entertained by the “captain,” a super tan overweight 50-year-old man with a beer belly, wearing a speedo.  He was constantly pulling the Captain Morgan pose by propping his leg up and smoking his pipe.  He and his chain-smoking first mate sounded like they were angrily yelling at each other every time they spoke, but I quickly realized it was just the way they spoke.  It was quite a sight to see.
The afternoon I arrived in Ihla Grande, I took a sunset stroll in Abrao and ran into my two British girlfriends that I had met at my hostel in Rio.  Later that night we went to dinner, but called it and early night.  The next day we all took an all day boat ride to three different beaches.  The boat kind of just coasted along all day, played music, and served drinks.  We sunbathed, went snorkeling (didn’t see anything though), saw some sights, and had a great lunch.  It was an awesome day.  That night, I ran into two more friends that I had met in Rio, who were also staying at my hostel. 
The next day, my friends and I set off on a two-hour hike to Lopes Mendes, a top 10 world famous beach.  The hike was amazing, I got to see a lot of the island, and got a great workout.  Unfortunately, by the time we reached the beach a storm had rolled in and it was pretty cold, windy, and cloudy; which was really weird considering that just on the other side of the mountain, the weather was picture perfect.  Unfortunately, I’m not sure Lopes Mendes really qualifies as a top ten beach, but if the weather had been better, I’m sure it would have been amazing.  Since we barely got any beach time, we decided to hike the whole way back as well (we could have payed 15 Reias for a one way boat ride to or from the island, but we all decided we needed the exercise).
Overall, Ihla Grande was great.  I would have opted to spend more time there if I had had more time.  People on the island are super easygoing, and the island itself is safe and tourist-friendly.


The van ride from Rio to Angra dos Reis

The dock at Angra dos Reis

The view from the deck of my hostel on Ihla Grande


Villa do Abrao



The cake vendor in Villa do Abrao

Dinner with my British friends!

The boat ride, everyone lounging

Where we went snorkeling and unfortunately saw nothing


The oldest church on Ihla Grande


Where we had lunch

Lunch!

view from the boat

The night's entertainment at my hostel for the chicken dinner.  They played an awesome mix of early 90's rock.  They were really good

Hiking to Lopes Mendes

Highest peak on our hike, the mainland is in the far distance

A beach church we passed along the way

This is what it looked like on one side of the mountain...
...And this is what it looked like on the other side at Lopes Mendes